Kanchenjunga North and South Base camp Trek

Take a guided day tour to five of the Kathmandu Valley’s cultural world heritage sites: Swayambhunath, the famed “monkey temple;” the city’s historical Durbar Square with ancient temples, unique art, architecture, and the chance to see the Kumari (living goddess); Patan’s Durbar Square; the Hindu temple Pashupatinath and Bouddhanath, the world’s largest stupa. (Lunch is not included.)

After an early breakfast we drive to the domestic airport for the flight to Bhadrapur (Chandragadh) in the south east corner of Nepal. Transfer to a jeep for the drive along the Mechi Highway to Ilam for lunch. Continue to Phidim through middle hill country. Most villages perch high on cooler hill tops with terraces down to rivers on the valley floor. Vehicles have to constantly zigzag up and down on gravel roads – that weather the force of the annual monsoon rains. Speed limits are generally 20km/hr. Overnight in Phidim.

From Phidim the road snakes its way up to Nagi and then swings NW on the new road to Kabeli and Taplejung. A new cross road from Kabeli links Taplejung with Medibung for local use. Overnight in Taplejung

Two trails lead to Thiwa, entrance to the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area. The longer trail drops to the considerable Tamor Nadi that drains the entire region to the north. Our higher, cooler, trail undulates downwards through the Sherpa hamlets of Lakchun, Bung Kulung and Gadi Danda to the Limbu village of Phurumbu; on a ridge above a huge landslide. It then meanders down through the Yaphre and Sisne Khola canyons to Linkhim, on a ridge. Overnight in Linkhim.

Follow the ridge into a canyon and gradually descend to the hamlets of Thiwa and Nagadin above the river. Continue, up and down, to the delightful thatched cluster village of Chirwa, set amongst huge boulders on a bend in the river. Overnight in Chirwa.

After an early breakfast, undulate along the east bank of the river through the broadened Tamor Nadi Valley, crossing the Tamewa Khola to the Limbu village of Tapethok (1 320m): entrance to the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area. Wealthy cardamom farms surround the village. Nepal is the third largest producer of cardamom. The tall plants, similar in appearance to ginger, produce their flowers and seeds close to the ground. Trekker’s TIMS card, trekking permit and the National Park receipt must be presented at the check point.

The KCA preserves 2 305km2 of sub-tropical evergreen, temperate and sub-alpine pine forests and alpine scrub meadows with ~3 000 plant species. Numerous rare animal species thrive in this sparsely populated and difficult terrain; including herds of bharal, Himalayan gorals, red pandas, illusive snow leopards and 250 bird species.

Trek to Hellok (1 740m) at the confluence of the Tamor Nadi and Simbuwa Khola (that drains Kanchenjunga’s southern Yalung Glacier below south BC). Continue to a bridge over the Ghunsa Khola (that drains the waters from the north Kanchenjunga, Jannu and other glaciers) where it meets the Tamor. Sekathum is a small Tibetan village, with teashops and a helipad. The campsite at Japantar, beyond the village, offers the first peek of the top of Jannu (7 710m). Overnight in Sekathum.

The trail, along the north bank, leaves the Tamor Nadi and rises up the steep sided and narrow valley forged by the Ghunsa Khola through birch, brown oak and rhododendron forest with dense bamboo groves on the lower slopes. Cardamoms are cultivated along the river. Stepped in places, it climbs to the tiny hamlet of Ghaiyabari (2 150m). The gradient then eases but the trail becomes exposed along steep grassy slopes. The slopes approaching the Tibetan village of Amjilosa show the effects of traditional slash-and-burn agriculture on the forest. Views of the valley and surroundings are impressive. Overnight in Amjilosa.

This is a relatively easy day. The trail climbs to a ridge then undulates through forest, passed waterfalls and scattered summer kharkas, gradually descending to a set of rapids on the river. This is followed by a grinding climb that leads to tea houses and a good camping site at the Sherpa hamlet of Gyabla. The scenery is steadily becoming more dramatic. Forests have been cut back all along the gentler high valley slopes for fields: the southern slopes remain pristine.  Overnight in Gyabla.

The trail rises 700m today with magnificent hemlock, Himalayan fir and rhododendron forest, plus stands of bamboo now shading the slopes. The north bank trail descends through a ravine before levelling out, to a long walk on more level ground before gradually rising to the extensive summer yak pastures and potato fields along the Bhotia ribbon village of Phale (3 140m): for lunch. A wooden Gompa with old statues and thangkasbrought from Tibet is worth a visit. The change in crops and forest vegetation indicates the approach of the alpine region with its shorter growing season.
Valley and trail then broaden, meandering through a forest of larches. A rock colourfully emblazoned with ‘Om mani padme hum’ announces the approach to Ghunsa (winter settlement; now with many permanent residents).
This attractive Tibetan village has homesteads set in plots of land surrounded by fields with wooden fences; giving a sense of spaciousness and quiet calm that is enhanced by the dramatic scale of the sheer forested valley walls. Colourful Tibetan carpets are made here – and could be collected on the down journey. Trekking documents must be presented at the police post. Overnight in Ghunsa.

As the altitude has now exceeded 3 000m, a rest day becomes mandatory to assist with acclimatisation for the climbing ahead. The town is an attractive place to rest and time could be spent in the village and walking to its old Gompa.  Blue sheep may be seen grazing high above the village. Or, take a day hike up the Yamatari Khola along the Lapsang La trail, to a lake at the terminal moraine of the Yamatari Glacier, before descending again to ‘sleep low.’

The trail climbs another 700m today. Trek north, east of the river through juniper and larch forests. Cross a boulder-strewn and sandy floodplain, then a rickety bridge over the river and continue upwards, fairly steeply, to attractive Rambuk Kharka (3 720m). Forest gradually gives way to alpine scrub as the narrow trail climbs, past a high waterfall and rock falls. Beyond is a dicey trail over a wide landslide, then a steeper trail, past the impressive snout of the Khumbakarna (Jannu) glacier (on the eastern side of the valley) to a knoll. End with a gentle descent into the U-shaped Kambachen Valley and the village. Overnight in Kambachen.

Another rest day is called for after rising to this altitude. Climb the hill above the village for better views of Jannu. Cross the river and follow a trail above the Khumbakarna Glacier to a magnificent viewpoint below Jannu. Walk NW up the Nupchu Khola Valley towards the ice fields and peaks above: can be tiring.

Today’s 600m climb is not strenuous, but care is needed through the stony river bed leading to herder’s huts at Ramtang (4 370m). Ahead is the Kanchenjunga-Ramtang glacier snout. The trail later climbs onto the moraine to reach the huts, small new lodges and camping space on the grassy Lhonak Kharka terraces. The glacier 50m below is dark with rubble-strewn debris from the opposite steep slopes. It is 21 km in length. The valley is often windy and bitterly cold once the sun disappears. Water can be scarce as the rainfall at Lhonak, in a rain shadow behind the huge Wedge Peak wall to the south, is far less than that over Kanchenjunga. Overnight in Lhonak.

The feint trail climbs 350m along the terrace above the glacier; over short grasses or rocky tracks that undulate with the terrain. A single hut at Pang Pema stands opposite the southward turn of the glacier to its source. Kanchenjunga has five peaks over 8 000m: Main peak is (8 598m/28 210ft) – earth’s 3rd highest. From Kanchenjunga to Tibet, an unbroken wall, nowhere less than 6 100m forms the border with Sikkim. The views rank amongst the most spectacular in the world. Return to warmer Lhonak for the night.

Retrace the up-route to Kambachen, with the eastern and southern vistas to the fore. Overnight in Kambachen.

Follow the trail downwards from the barren upper reaches of the river through scrub juniper into the alpine juniper and larch forests. Look out for (colourful male) Danphe pheasants - Nepal’s national bird. Overnight in Ghunsa.

From Ghunsa, two trails lead to the Yalung Glacier and Kanchenjunga’s southern viewpoint: the five passes Mirgin La trail is easier. The trail winds through ancient forest above which is open country – and the Tamo La (3 900m). Beyond the Sele La (4 115m) is a kharka with simple goths: the stopping point on the first of the two-day trek to Tseram.  On the north-western horizon are great views of the Everest (8 850m) group and Makalu (8463m). Overnight at the kharka huts.

The trail can be arduous if covered with snow and is poorly marked. After two passes there are two small lakes before Sinelapche La (4 640m) followed by a tricky 840m descent to Tseram.

Tseram is a small kharka settlement with lodges; that is only inhabited during the summer months when herders drive their yaks north from Yamphudin. Himalayan gorals frequent the forests in this region. A trail to the east forks to two pass crossings, on either side of Khangla Khang, to Sikkim. Overnight in Tseram.

To the north of Tseram and now above the tree line, the trail ascends past the snout of the Yalung Glacier, along the northern bank, and into a series of ablation valleys formed by retreating ice, beyond which are open, windblown pastures that rise to the east and the border. Ramche is a summer grazing kharka set in a broad, flat valley beside a lake. It offers basic facilities, in simple lodges; there is ample, exposed, space for camping. Overnight in Ramche.

The path beyond Ramche rises gently and follows the valley around a sweeping curve before climbing onto the moraine above the white largely rubble-free glacier. A stone mound chortenbedecked with Hindu and Buddhist artefacts is an ideal site for the spectacular views of the huge south face of Kanchenjunga which dominates the entire skyline. If time and moraine conditions allow, walk further to include a view of Jannu rising above the Tso glacier.

The ridge, forming the border between Nepal and Sikkim, forms a cirque which, from Kokthang in the south to the main summit is over 15 km long and never less than 7 500m high. Return to Tseram for the night.

The trail south of Tseram down the narrow Simbuwa Valley, keeps to the east bank of the river. Juniper forest gives way to Himalayan fir and rhododendrons. The forests are old and little disturbed by human impact, apart from small herder’s kharkas and a little grazing along the sides of the tracks. The views of the mountains disappear (snow turns to rain) and temperatures rise. Tortong, 900m below Tseram is a small village with teahouses and campsites. Overnight at Tortong.

This will be a long day: after an early breakfast, cross the river and walk downstream to the start of a winding path through forest up the Lamite Bhanjyang. Landslides are common in this region so the upper section may be tricky. At the top, turn right (south) and walk along the ridge to a nearby rudimentary herder’s hut for a warm welcome and early lunch – plus good views of upper Jannu.

The 1 200m downward trail begins with vistas of middle hills covered in dense temperate broadleaf forests. Zigzag down the west bank of the narrow Amji Khola valley. Later cross an incoming tributary on a rudimentary swing bridge before the trail curves above Yamphudin to its gated entrance. Overnight in Yamphudin.

Cross the Amji Khola onto a tough forest trail that climbs to a knife edge before descending to cross the Kabeli Khola before undulating up in more open country to a hilltop teahouse at Otham (with log beehives along its walls). The trail then begins a long gradual descent towards Khebang. Enter the pleasant village at an impressive school, topped with solar panels; whose pupils will throng to greet you... Overnight in Khebang.   

Today’s exhilarating trail contours high above steep, lush agricultural terraces that descend to the Tawa Khola far below. The hillsides are treeless and dotted with homes perched on tiny flattened plots. The well laid path is exposed at times and later ‘plunges’ towards the river, winding passed numerous farmhouses. Stop for lunch at Muktura above the confluence of the Kabeli and Tawa Kholas. Continue along the west-bank trail to the small village of Ambegudin for the night.
 

The appearance of rice paddies indicates a lower, warmer climate for the trek to Medibung. Paths now become roads and the walking is easier. The hills are forested above agricultural lands. Eventually the trail drops to cross the Tawa Khola on a long suspension bridge: next to a fairly new steel road bridge. A final trail pulls steeply upward to the trade village of Medibung. Overnight in Medibung.

The Hillihang Laam from Medibung joins the HO7 Mechi Highway from Taplejung near Kabeli. The shorter return route to Ilam thus repeats much of the up-route.

 Ilam is the capital of Nepal’s tea industry. It offers pristine landscapes of sloped tea gardens below natural forest and has a unique culture. Walk from your hotel to visit an estate above the main street. Overnight in Ilam.

The bus drive to Bhadrapur (Chandragadh) takes you to the town centre. Take a taxi to the airport. An open air kiosk near the entrance serves fresh meals under trees and umbrellas.

After the flight to Kathmandu we will transfer you to your hotel.  Evening farewell dinner.

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your onward destination.