My First Visit for Trekking in Nepal (2008)

Stories of continental drift and the rise of the vast Himalayan Chain had long fascinated me, so in May, 2008, I set out, with friends for my very first visit for trekking in Nepal, visit the region and tackle the Gokyo Lakes – Everest Base Camp Trek. This proved to be a thrilling adventure that went way beyond all expectations and dreams.

On leaving Tribhuvan Airport we were thrown into the ‘controlled chaos’ that is Kathmandu’s slow traffic and headed for our hotel in Thamel. Venturing forth we soon learnt that walking the narrow streets is safe and that hooting traffic is not aggressive, but cautionary. Everywhere friendly smiling traders call to invite you to peruse and bargain for wares: progress is slow! Countless restaurants serve delicious Nepali and ‘foreign’ meals to locals and tourists alike.

A Kathmandu city tour is obligatory: our guide (Prem Panta) taking us to the five world heritage sites introduced us to the multicultural aspect of the city with its rich mix of ~60 ethnic groups with Hindu or Buddhist beliefs. With limited time, we could not have achieved this on our own.

A short flight east along the Himalayas leads to Lukla (2 840m), a minute airport bustling with activity in good early morning weather (planes land and leave with homebound passengers within three minutes!). Here we met our porters and headed north for the 16 day trek to Everest Base Camp Trek (EBC). At first the route is downhill through forest and farmland. Only prayer and watermill wheels are seen beyond Lukla: everything is carried on people’s backs or by pack animals. We trekked at the pace of the people and hugely admired their energetic lifestyles, sturdy homes and productive farms.

A (welcome) two night stop at Namche Bazaar (3 440m) allowed us to acclimatise to the altitude and explore the surrounding region and Sherpa culture. Sherpa’s mainly reside in the Solu, Khumbu and Helambu Valleys; they are of Tibetan origin and migrated to these regions ~five centuries ago.

From Namche we headed, NW, for two days, up the (quiet) Dudh Khosi Valley, above the tree line, to the Gokyo Lakes below the huge Ngozumpa Glacier that rises from Cho Oyo and the Kangchung Ridge. A stiff climb up Gokyo Ri gave magnificent views of Cho Oyo, the NW face of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu (four of the eight 8 000m peaks at a glance).

Next we crossed the glacier and climbed the 5 420m Cho La to join the trail to Base Camp. This was a long, demanding but thrilling day with countless peaks in all directions. Two less strenuous days helped our acclimatisation to Gorak Shep (5 140m), the last seasonal settlement before BC. Being the climbing season, the walk to BC was with countless porters, donkeys and yaks carrying in goods for the aspirant mountaineers and their huge support staff. We sat on the edge of the camp taking in the ring of peaks that surround the area, the dreaded icefall and the camp activity. Everest is hidden behind rock walls, however: a stiff climb up Kala Patthar (5 550m) behind Gorak Shep the next morning gave great sunrise views of its summit, the South Col and Lhotse. We returned, on busy trails, to Lukla in four days.

The adage “one trekking in Nepal trip is never enough” is true. The beauty of Nepal, its adventure trekking trails and the friendliness of all its people is addictive. Since 2008 I have returned on four occasions to trek in Nepal with Prem or his brother tackling the Annapurna Circuit and Base Camp trekking trails as well as Upper Dolpo and the Manaslu – Tsum Valley circuit. I also joined a friend to explore the North and South BC trails around mighty Kangchenjunga in far eastern Nepal. I have yet to trek in the Langtang region! Each trek is special and no two are alike: terrain, flora and fauna, local people and the scenery all have something unique to offer.

Prem opened his Landmark Discovery Treks Company in April 2015 just after the devastating Nepal Earthquake 2015.  Naturally, we have become firm friends over time, but I would like to recommend him to you for his thorough, professional and sensitive approach to guiding. He will see to every detail of your trek and take great pains to ensure that the experience is special, safe and rewarding in every way.

Keith Roberts 
Cape Town
kroberts@telkomsa.net