Manaslu Tsum Valley Trek

Take a day tour to five of the Kathmandu Valley’s cultural world heritage sites: Swayambhunath, the famed “monkey temple”; the city’s historical Durbar Square with ancient temples, unique art and architecture, plus the chance to see the Kumari (living goddess); Patan’s Durbar Square; the Hindu temple Pashupatinath and Bouddhanath, the world’s largest stupa.
A car and driver will take you to each site-entrance and wait for you. (Entry tickets and lunch are not included.)

Drive west from Kathmandu towards Pokhara through Middle Hill rural communities to Malekhu. Cross the Trisuli and head north to Dhading Besi. A slow, rutted, dirt road then heads NW: over the Gola Bhanjyang (with panoramic views of the Baudha and Ganesh Himals).

(Beyond this occasional views of Ganesh IV and VI will be seen above the valley walls as far as Khorlabesi. Shringi Himal appears from Salleri to Philim, from where Baudha Himal is also visible. Baudha and the Ganesh Himal are spectacular from Gumba Lungdang. Manaslu is not visible from the Tsum Valley and is first seen on the walk up to Lho.)
(Beyond this occasional views of Ganesh IV and VI will be seen above the valley walls as far as Khorlabesi., from where Baudha Himal is also visible. Manaslu is first seen on the walk up to Lho.)

Drive on to Arughat and the Budhi Gandaki that drains the Manaslu–Tsum region. A further ~4 hrs drive up the west bank leads to Machha Khola. Overnight in Machha khola.

Cross the Thado Khola, descend stone stairs then follow the bar to Khorlabesi (970m, coffee and tobacco crops). The GHT trail through Gorkha (and Barpak, epicentre of the first quake on 25/04/15) crosses our trail, heading east from Manaslu to the Langtang then Everest regions.

Enter a lush narrow gorge constricting the river’s progress. Cross a landslide with a dicey path, before the three hot spring spouts in Tatopani (930m). Climb a ridge then cross the Budhi Gandaki (to avoid a cliff face and waterfalls). A staircase then leads to a landslide before climbing to a ridge; and Dobhan. Overnight in Dobhan. 

Exit over the Dobhan Khola, then follow the east bank to the hamlet of Thulo Dhunga (1 840m); above cataracts. Later the gradient lessens, the valley opens and the water is placid at Yaruphant (1 170m). Cross the Yaru Khola (from Ganesh II and VI) on an old suspension bridge then climb to the teahouses at Thado Bharyang. Cross back to the west bank and ascend gently to the old paved village of Jagat (1 410m): entrance and checkpoint to the Manaslu Conservation Area.

Cross a tributary before a cliff-side trail to Salleri: with views of Shringi Himal (7 187m) to the north. Descend to Sirdibas; and the first symbols of Buddhist culture. A final bridge beyond Ghatta Khola (1 480m, water mills) to the east bank, leads to a steep climb up to Philim: a prosperous Gurung village set amongst millet and maize fields; see the Chholing Sandu Gompa. Overnight in Philim. 

The trail winds through scrub and lush grasses up the beautiful narrowing valley to the high millet fields of Chisopani, then Ekle Bhatti (1 600m, one house). Gradually descend, past a spectacular waterfall, into the narrow lower gorge: and a junction, left to ‘New Bridge’ and the Larkya La.  To the right a well-graded trail zigzags up through blue pines and rhododendron, to Lokpa in the narrow Lower Tsum Valley. Tsum has 18 villages and is home to ~4 000 people.

Drop down through forest, before tackling a long, steep climb up the south wall of the Siyar Khola gorge; above the river draining Tsum. The ‘summit’ is landmarked by flags; overlooking colourful potato, bean and grain fields with Shringi Himal above. Descend to Gumlung and cross the river: for a final, gentler ascent to Chumling. The buildings are classic Tibetan but with sloping roofs to shed rain and snow. Overnight in Chumling.

The trail crosses the river to new forest on an old landslide.  Pass a water powered prayer wheel on a ‘Nepali flat’ trail in deep forest: look out for chattering white-faced langurs. At Tanju (2 480m) the small Damphe Gompa houses hundreds of small Chenresig (Buddha of Compassion) ceramic statues: a common feature in Tsum’s gompas.
Beyond Dumje there are views of Baudha Peak and the Ganesh Himal. Beyond Rainjam Farm, cross the Sarphu Khola: draining the Syakpa Glacier from Shringi Himal. Then climb for ~2½ hrs, past Gho through birch, larch and pine forest, to the broad relatively flat Upper Tsum Valley.

Landmark slate chortens facing Ganesh II precede a kani gate to the, now joined, villages of Chhokang and Paro; collectively called Chhekampar (place of wisdom).  Houses nestle together to maximise agricultural land for barley, buckwheat, maize and potatoes: crops that ripen in high, short growing seasons. Yaks graze in pastures, tahrs graze along cliffs: and need monitoring to prevent crop losses. Overnight in Chhekampar. 

Two days, with numerous attractions are spent NE of Chhekampar: a full morning is needed N of Nile to visit the Mu and Doma Dephyu Gompas. The Siyar Khola flows SW down the centre of the valley; two bridges cross it: the first before twin Ngakyu and Leru (just S of the Rachen Nunnery), the second N of Lamjung and Milarepa’s Cave. A road has been started in this region!

Northwest of the Siyar Khola:Walk up and through the attractive, joined villages of Ngakyu and Leru (3 200m, with mustard fields and apple orchards). Continue to Lama Gaon (3 300m) and Burji (3 380m, where a key and Rs300/p ticket can be secured to visit the cave: best visited on the ‘up day;’ Rachen on the way down.)

A ~½hr tricky side path leads up, past chortens to Milarepa’s Caves (Piren Phu – Pigeon Cave) on the slopes of Langju Himal. There is an impression of Milarepa’s foot, an elephant shaped rock and two small gompas: one over his meditation place, the other devoted to local Nyingma-pa deities. The old retreat monastery, Chi Phu, clings to slopes higher up.

Southeast of the Siyar Khola:N of the cave, the trail crosses the second bridge to the SE bank, joining the Rachen – Nile trail before Phurbe (3 250m). Walk up to Pangdun (3 260m, its gompa has a large prayer wheel). The valley now curves gently to the N, passing an unusual stupa before an entrance kani (gate) to Chhule (3 350m, Chhu Li, shady side). The 700 yr old and well-endowed double storeyed Gonhgye Monastery is ½ hr to the east, with great views.

Cross a tributary (from a high waterfall) and then the Siyar Khola: climb to Nile (Nyi Li, sunny side) on the NW bank. The glaciers of Pashubo stand along the eastern border. Overnight in Nile.

This can be a long but rewarding day. Set out early for the <2hr trek past snow ridges to Mu Gompa (3 700m, 70 yrs). This is Tsum’s highest and last permanent settlement and overlooks the valley and western Ganesh Himal, including Ganesh I. Climb above Mu for a steep ¾ hr to the tiny Dephyu Doma Nunnery (4 000m, 856 yrs, place of the birth of light) perched on an unlikely slope: but with magical, exclusive views of Ganesh II and part of the western Himal.

The trail continues N of Mu to high grazing kharkas (pastures) with goths (herder’s huts): a few with seasonal teahouse facilities on the two pass routes to Kyirong in Tibet.
Return to Nile for lunch then retrace your steps to Phurbe and on to the extensive walled grounds of Rachen Nunnery (3 240m, 110 yrs, of the Ngak-pa-sect; that forbids all animal slaughter). Visit the intimate original monastery which stands in the SW corner of the complex, near the gate. Its old murals depict the history of Buddhism. Residential cells for the nuns and retreat buildings are set along and within the walls. A new, imposing light and airy temple with deities in tall glass-fronted cases now stands further back in the grounds.
Cross the bridge below Rachen and walk back to Chhekampar for the night.

Return to the grouped chortens and descend into the Lower Tsum Valley and the gompa at Gho. Turn south, and cross the river to Dumje (Gumba Monastery owns a small school, herbal medicine clinic and fields here). A ~3 ½ hr stiff climb through glorious oak, rhododendron and pine forest leads to a landmark mani wall (and gompa views): then an exposed section before snaking up through giant silver pines to a ridge and the Nunnery. This is another dramatically placed site with tremendous all-round views. Gumba Lungdang (110 yrs) is currently home to ~20 nuns. Expect a warm welcome and attend their evening puja. Morning views should offer one of the trek’s highlights. Overnight on the Gompa veranda.  

Descend through the forests to a small chorten and left fork onto a narrow trail to cross the Langdang Khola. Later climb steadily crossing two high bridges over impressive narrow gorges up to Ripchet: an agricultural village cut from surrounding forest. After lunch, drop steeply down stairs to Gumlung at the river before re-tackling the forested pass and final ascent back to Lokpa. Overnight in Lokpa.

Descend to the trail junction from Philim; drop to ‘New Bridge’ over the Budhi Gandaki (shortly before its confluence with Tsum’s Siyar Khola) and follow the trail as it curves NW into the Manaslu Valley. A broader trail gradually rises, through bamboo forest to Deng [1 800m, entry to Kutang/Lower Nupri (‘Nubri,’) - within Tibet until the 1840s]. The people are Gurungs who speak a unique dialect, practice Buddhism and still trade with Tibet.

Cross to the E bank and climb to Rana (1 980m). Tight switchbacks end at a log-bridge tributary-crossing before an isolated water mill. The trail then gently descends to Bihi Phedi; still high above the river.   Overnight in Bihi Phedi.

Undulate above the river before dropping to cross the Serang Khola (far below the Serang Gompa) and later enter an S-bend between basalt walls. Rocky crags rise to the E, with a waterfall high above fields of wheat and maize. The valley broadens as it curves W: cross to the S bank shortly before a kani into attractive Ghap (2 250m); for lunch.

Ascend, through bamboo and bird-filled forests. Cross to the N bank past sheer rocky walls. The river then becomes constricted by hard rock; a short wooden bridge (over a natural rock tunnel) returns to the south bank as the water thunders below. A steep 1 hr trail leads up and away from the river to Namrung. En-route are views of the substantial Tum Khola from the Tibetan highlands: that adds its volume to the lower river at its (unseen) confluence. Namrung is a permit checkpoint. Overnight in Namrung.

This is the entrance to Upper Nupri (western mountains). Its people, formerly from Tibet, speak a unique dialect, favour chubas as common dress and continue to trade with Tibet.
The trail through maize and barley fields to Barsam is gentle. (Night guard towers, manned to scare off marauding bears, dot fields from Deng to Shrip). Climb more steeply to Lihi (2 900m, homes are grouped in clusters beneath one shingled roof). Ganesh II appears east of the valley and landmark chortens herald views of Himal Chuli (7 893m) south of the trail.

The trail then enters a side valley, crosses the Hinang Khola (and a trail to the Himal Chuli BC). It climbs steeply to a detailed chorten land marking the ice walls of Himal Chuli to the south. Beyond are the clustered houses fields and apple orchards of Sho (2 960m). Good views continue as the trail ascends to the hamlet of Shrip.

From Shrip, the trail curves up towards Lho: and reveals the 8th highest peak: Manaslu (8 156m/26 760ft, which, from the Sanskrit manasa – ‘intellect’ or ‘soul’ gives ‘Mountain of the Spirit’); Manaslu North and Naike Peak. A steep climb ends on the ridge in the attractive village of Lho.

The stone houses are shingled and many have distinctive wooden decks. The imposing Ribung Monastery above the village houses ~150 monks. A kani beyond the village, past an ancient mani wall and chortens, offers the best spot for dusk and dawn pictures. Overnight in Lho.

The Budi Gandaki flows deep in the valley north of the kani and viewpoint. Descend steeply to cross the Damonan Khola tributary. Then follow a stream up through glorious mixed forest. A short final climb leads to a plateau: and the badly deforested region around Shyala (3 520m). Peaks rise on all sides: Himal Chuli (7 893m) and Peak 29 (Ngadi Chuli, 7 873m) to the south; Manaslu and glaciers ahead; snow-capped peaks to the north and west.

Later, cross a new bridge over the Numla Khola that drains Manaslu’s Pungyen Glacier. Beyond, a trail heads (left) to Pungyen Gompa on the glacier. Walk down the attractive, broad valley past a school and extensive barley and potato fields to a large chorten.

Enter Sama through a yellow kani and pass a gompa (smothered in mani stones) to rows of low stone dwellings with front courtyards.

Only upper Manaslu and the Naike ridge can be seen from the village. Overnight in Sama.

Sama is Nupri’s regional centre. Explore its architecture, customs and home industries. Items made for trade in Tibet include cloth for chubas and woven rugs using local or imported yarn from sheep and goats. Horses, Yak and Dzopkyo (yak-cow cross) herds are bred for trade.

Beyond and above the village is the 700 hundred year old Kargyu Chholing Monastery (or Labrang: Lama’s Place); its architecture is unique and has fine woodwork. The largest of its eight temple buildings is the Pemba Chholing Gompa, with an impressive statue of Guru Rinpoche. It is owned by the Nyingma Buddhist sect whose Lamas are permitted to marry; and live within the complex. (Regrettably much of the Labrang was destroyed in a fire on 18 February 2015.)

A short walk beyond the monastery leads to the Birendra Tal (3 450m, lake) below the Manaslu Glacier.  View it from a hilltop or drop to a stony beach which offers striking views of the terrain. 1½hrs

A demanding trail above the far side of the lake (reached from a path at the bridge over the outflow stream) climbs ~1 200m past the glacier’s snout to the Manaslu Base Camp (4 900m), 5-6 hrs

A trek to the Pungyen Nunnery (3 870m), on a ridge above the Pungyen Glacier; offers superb views of the Nadi ice-ridges and Manaslu towering over the gompa.

To reach the gompa, return towards Shyala, passed the school to the turnoff. The trail heads over a ridge above the Numa Khola and drops onto the Pungyen Glacier. Walk to the ridge on which the gompa is built. ~2½hr. The route can be very cold and slippery; take refreshments.

In 1953, much of the gompa was destroyed in an avalanche – and was only recently rebuilt. Blame for the avalanche was apportioned to the first Japanese (unsuccessful) expedition to Manaslu. They were the first to conquer it – in 1956. 5-6hrs   Return to Sama for the night.

A pleasant and easy walk today. Pass the lake, the BC trail and several mani walls. Birch and juniper stands cover the hills surrounding Kermo Kharka above the now north flowing Budhi Gandaki. Later, a stone wall across the valley separates the Sama and Samdo herds. Further on, a spur rises ahead, between the river from the Sonam/Mayol Khola off the Sonam Glacier NE of the trail. Drop to cross the Budhi on a wooden bridge just below their confluence and then the Sonam Khola.

Climb steeply up the spur to a stone arch amid fields. Walk to a white kani at the entrance to Sama: a cold, cluster village against a ridge. Tibetan residents had summer grazing rights to this region, but with the political changes in the late 1950s they fled to Sama and constructed the slate roofed stone dwellings. It is a yak and goat herding post on the trade route to Kyirong; with holding pens amid fields behind the village. This is the last village in Gorkha. The next is Gho in the Manang District (Annapurna region). Several kharkas have teahouses in between.  

The vegetation has now changed to alpine low grasses, rhododendron and juniper scrub. After lunch, follow yak tracks up the steep flag bedecked spur behind the village for magnificent 270o views. To the east, along the border, is Sonam Peak (6 335m) with an unusually demarcated glacial moraine. Ahead is the Sama Valley and ranges to the south of Manaslu (hidden by a rocky peak). The view to the west shows tomorrow’s route to Bimthang – and Larkya La along the Larkya Glacier. In the foreground the Syacha Glacier from Manaslu North curls around the foreground peak. Overnight in Samdo.

Drop for the final crossing of the Budhi Gandaki below the former Larkya Bazaar site (3 650m, a popular seasonal trading post before the border was closed). The diminished stream flows from the northern Pana Danda Valley: where a trail leads to two passes to Tibet. Our trail heads west and climbs gently through low scrub above the Syacha Khola and glacier. Its descent from Manaslu North can be seen up that valley.

The trail steadily ascends towards the Larkya Glacier’s snout beyond the hidden Larkya Phedi which gradually comes into view. This seasonal kharka had a kitchen with dining room, 15 small double rooms in two rows and two tunnel tents; each with eight beds plus a third for trekking staff. Better views of the Naike (6 291m) and Larke (6 249m) peaks can be had from higher up the side of the valley. Rest and overnight in Dharamsala.

Larkya La involves an 800m, 3-5 hr ascent (when snow free) and a 1 500m, 3-4 hr descent to Bimthang. It can be bitterly cold if windy; snow and ice will demand more time. Snow poles mark the route along the moraine: it is not difficult or steep, but is long and everywhere rocky underfoot.

A pre-sunrise start begins with a gentle ascent to a ridge before a long ascent to the vast, jumbled moraine field. Ahead Pawar Peak on the northern border wall of Cheo Himal and Larke Peak on the southern Larkya Himal gradually appear above the moraine. Walk past the first of four small scattered lakes. Finally a steady pull curves towards Larke and the first group of summit flags. The reverse view overlooks the trail, distant Sonam Peak and ranges into Tibet. The Cheo and Larkya Himal ridges block views to the north and south.
Ahead, a moraine ridge, separated from the Larke wall by a parallel gully leads, for ~30 min, to a second set of landmark flags: and the boundary between the Manaslu and Annapurna conservation regions. They also overlook astounding views into a huge semi-circular basin ringed by a mix of magnificent ice peaks and eroding grey rocky walls. Within, three glaciers flow towards the southwest corner.

From north to west, the landmark peaks are Pawar (6 620m), Cheo (6 820m), Himlung (7 126m), Gyaji Kung (7 030m) and Kang Garu (6 981m). Further east Annapurna II (7 937m) rises above lesser peaks.

From the flags, drop steeply off the moraine and then carefully descend the, steep switchback trail, over loose gravels: to grassy Dangboche Kharka (4 450m) below your feet.
Rest frequently to marvel at the results of the valley’s glacial action. The Pawar Himal produced the Salpudanda and Ponkar Glaciers which then merge (trapping the medial Ponkar Tal). The third, Kechakyu Glacier, then merges with the others at the western end of the valley forming the Bimthang Glacier whose outflow swells the Dudh (milk) Khola: forming the border between the Manaslu and Annapurna Himals.

The gradient from Dangboche Kharka is more comfortable. Descend beside the lateral moraines into a narrow valley and a T-junction: north and up to explore the Ponkar Tal (3 960m); south a gentle walk into the lovely Bimthang (plain of sand) Valley – and attractive teahouses ahead. Beyond, the northeast face of the Manaslu – Chuli Ridges rise high above forest. The Kechakyu Himal guards the trail to Ponkar Tal.

Bimthang has become the summer grazing settlement for the Samdo population. It was an important trading post before the closure of the Tibetan border. Tibetan Khampa warriors had a centre here in the 1970s. Overnight in Bimthang.

Walk across the Bimthang Plain; then begin a 1 200m descent to Gho. Cross the stony glacier before climbing its far moraine to enter magnificent pristine oak, rhododendron and pine forests. Views of the Manaslu – Chuli Range continue along the route. Descend along the Dudh Khola’s west bank to Hompuk (3 430m, a rock shelter near a bridge) then attractive Sangura Kharka (3 430m). Drop steeply to cross the Suti Khola to Karche (2 700m) for lunch. Follow the river’s S bend then negotiate a flood related landslide and a steep ridge climb past terraced fields to the charming Gurung village of Gho. Overnight in Gho.

After breakfast, descend through farmlands to the old paved village of Tilje (2 300m). Cross to the river’s east bank and descend rapidly into the Marsyangdi Valley through scrub forest. Return to the west bank before Thonje (1 965m) and then, in Thonje, cross the descending Marsyangdi Khola (from Manang) prior to their confluence.  Join the new road from Manang on the Annapurna Circuit and descend to bustling Dharapani for lunch.

After lunch follow the road down to Khotro (1 860m) then cross to the river’s eastern bank to trek down the steep trail to the attractive and quieter village of Tal. Here the river is placid, flowing between wire mesh gabions. Overnight in Tal.

After an early breakfast, take a jeep for the rutted descent (passing the development of an impressive new hydroelectric scheme) to Besi Sahar. Then, travel east on the paved road back to Kathmandu. Overnight in Kathmandu. 
[Alternatively, drive west to explore the Lake City of Pokhara (106km), south of the Annapurnas.  Return to Kathmandu by plane or tourist bus.]      

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your next destination.

NB: Cloud and turbulent weather along the mountain ranges is common and may lead to internal mountain flight delays or cancellations. We suggest you allow at least one extra day after your trek before flying out of Nepal.