Tsum Valley Trek

Sadly, many of our architectural treasures were damaged in the recent earthquakes: but these sites still have much to offer.
Take a day tour to five of the Kathmandu Valley’s cultural world heritage sites: Swayambhunath, the famed “monkey temple”; the city’s historical Durbar Square with ancient temples, unique art and architecture, plus the chance to see the Kumari (living goddess); Patan’s Durbar Square; the Hindu temple Pashupatinath and Bouddhanath, the world’s largest stupa.
A car and driver will take you to each site-entrance and wait for you. (Entry tickets and lunch are not included.)

Drive west from Kathmandu towards Pokhara through Middle Hill rural communities to Malekhu. Cross the Trisuli  and head north to Dhading Besi. A slow, rutted, dirt road then heads NW: over the Gola Bhanjyang (with panoramic views of the Baudha and Ganesh Himals).           

(Beyond this occasional views of Ganesh IV and VI will be seen above the valley walls as far as Khorlabesi. The Baudha Himal is seen from Philim and then from high in the Tsum Valley. The Ganesh Himal is spectacular from Gumba Lungdang. Manaslu is not visible from the Tsum Valley.)

Drive on to Arughat and the Budhi Gandaki that drains the Manaslu–Tsum region. A further ~4 hrs drive up the west bank leads to Machha Khola. Overnight in Machha Khola.

Cross the Thado Khola, descend stone stairs then follow the bar to Khorlabesi (970m, coffee and tobacco crops). The GHT trail through Gorkha (and Barpak, epicentre of the first quake on 25/04/15) crosses our trail, heading east from Manaslu to the Langtang then Everest regions.

Enter a lush narrow gorge constricting the river’s progress. Cross a landslide with a dicey path, before the three hot spring spouts in Tatopani (930m). Climb a ridge then cross the Budhi Gandaki (to avoid a cliff face and waterfalls). A staircase then leads to a landslide before climbing to a ridge; and Dobhan. Overnight in Dobhan. 

Exit over the Dobhan Khola, then follow the east bank to the hamlet of Thulo Dhunga (1 840m); above cataracts. Later the gradient lessens, the valley opens and the water is placid at Yaruphant (1 170m). Cross the Yaru Khola (from Ganesh II and VI) on an old suspension bridge then climb to the teahouses at Thado Bharyang. Cross back to the west bank and ascend gently to the old paved village of Jagat (1 410m): entrance and checkpoint to the Manaslu Conservation Area.

Cross a tributary before a cliff-side trail to Salleri: with views of Shringi Himal (7 187m) to the north. Descend to Sirdibas; and the first symbols of Buddhist culture. A final bridge beyond Ghatta (water mills) Khola (1 480m) to the east bank, leads to a steep climb up to Philim: a prosperous Gurung village set amongst millet and maize fields; see the Chholing Sandu Gompa. Overnight in Philim. 

The trail winds through scrub and lush grasses up the beautiful narrowing valley to the high millet fields of Chisopani, then Ekle Bhatti (1 600m, one house). Gradually descend, past a spectacular waterfall, into the gorge: and a junction, left to ‘New Bridge’ and the Larkya La.  To the right a well-graded trail zigzags up through blue pines and rhododendron, to Lokpa in the narrow Lower Tsum Valley. Tsum has 18 villages and is home to ~4 000 people.

Drop down through forest, before tackling a long, steep climb up the south wall of the Siyar Khola gorge; above the river draining Tsum. The ‘summit’ is landmarked by flags; overlooking colourful potato, bean and grain fields with Shringi Himal above. Descend to Gumlung and cross the river: for a final, gentler ascent to Chumling. The buildings are classic Tibetan but with sloping roofs to shed rain and snow. Overnight in Chumling.

  The trail crosses the river to new forest on an old landslide.  Pass a water powered prayer wheel on a ‘Nepali flat’ trail in deep forest: look out for chattering white-faced langurs. At Tanju (2 480m) the small Damphe Gompa houses hundreds of small Chenresig (Buddha of Compassion) ceramic statues: a common feature in Tsum’s gompas.

Beyond Dumje there are views of Baudha Peak and the Ganesh Himal. Beyond Rainjam Farm, cross the Sarphu Khola: draining the Syakpa Glacier from Shringi Himal. Then climb for ~2½ hrs, past Gho through birch, larch and pine forest, to the broad relatively flat Upper Tsum Valley.

Landmark slate chortens facing Ganesh II precede a kani gate to the, now joined, villages of Chhokang and Paro; collectively called Chhekampar (place of wisdom).  Houses nestle together to maximise agricultural land for barley, buckwheat, maize and potatoes: crops that ripen in high, short growing seasons. Yaks graze in pastures, tahrs graze along cliffs: and need monitoring to prevent crop losses. Overnight in Chhekampar. 

Two days, with numerous attractions are spent NE of Chhekampar: a full morning is needed N of Nile to visit the Mu and Doma Dephyu Gompas. The Siyar Khola flows SW down the centre of the valley; two bridges cross it: the first before twin Ngakyu and Leru (just S of the Rachen Nunnery), the second N of Lamjung and Milarepa’s Cave. A road has been started in this region!

Northwest of the Siyar Khola:Walk up and through the attractive, joined villages of Ngakyu and Leru (3 200m, with mustard fields and apple orchards). Continue to Lama Gaon (3 300m) and Burji (3 380m, where a key and Rs300/p ticket can be secured to visit the cave: best visited on the ‘up day;’ Rachen on the way down.)

A ~½hr tricky side path leads up, past chortens to Milarepa’s Caves (Piren Phu – Pigeon Cave) on the slopes of Langju Himal. There is an impression of Milarepa’s foot, an elephant shaped rock and two small gompas: one over his meditation place, the other devoted to local Nyingma-pa deities. The old retreat monastery, Chi Phu, clings to slopes higher up.            

Southeast of the Siyar Khola:N of the cave, the trail crosses the second bridge to the SE bank, joining the Rachen – Nile trail before Phurbe (3 250m). Walk up to Pangdun (3 260m, its gompa has a large prayer wheel). The valley now curves gently to the N, passing an unusual stupa before an entrance kani (gate) to Chhule (3 350m, Chhu Li, shady side). The 700 yr old and well endowed double storeyed Gonhgye Monastery is ½ hr to the east, with great views.

Cross a tributary (from a high waterfall) and then the Siyar Khola: climb to Nile (Nyi Li, sunny side) on the NW bank. The glaciers of Pashubo stand along the eastern border. Overnight in Nile.

This can be a long but rewarding day. Set out early for the <2hr trek past snow ridges to Mu Gompa (3 700m, 70 yrs). This is Tsum’s highest and last permanent settlement and overlooks the valley and western Ganesh Himal, including Ganesh I. Climb above Mu for a steep ¾ hr to the tiny Dephyu Doma Nunnery (4 000m, 856 yrs, place of the birth of light) perched on an unlikely slope: but with magical, exclusive views of Ganesh II and part of the western Himal.

The trail continues N of Mu to high grazing kharkas (pastures) with goths (herder’s huts): a few with seasonal teahouse facilities on the two pass routes to Kyirong in Tibet.
Return to Nile for lunch then retrace your steps to Phurbe and on to the extensive walled grounds of Rachen Nunnery (3 240m, 110 yrs, of the Ngak-pa-sect; that forbids all animal slaughter). Visit the intimate original monastery which stands in the SW corner of the complex, near the gate. Its old murals depict the history of Buddhism. Residential cells for the nuns and retreat buildings are set along and within the walls. A new, imposing light and airy temple with deities in tall glass-fronted cases now stands further back in the grounds.
Cross the bridge below Rachen and walk back to Chhekampar for the night.

Return to the grouped chortens and descend into the Lower Tsum Valley and the gompa at Gho. Turn south, and cross the river to Dumje (Gumba Monastery owns a small school, herbal medicine clinic and fields here). A ~3 ½ hr stiff climb through glorious oak, rhododendron and pine forest leads to a landmark mani wall (and gompa views): then an exposed section before snaking up through giant silver pines to a ridge and the Nunnery. This is another dramatically placed site with tremendous all-round views. Gumba Lungdang (110 yrs) is currently home to ~20 nuns. Expect a warm welcome and attend their evening puja. Morning views should offer one of the trek’s highlights. Overnight on the Gompa veranda. 

Descend through the forests to a small chorten and left fork onto a narrow trail to cross the Langdang Khola. Later climb steadily crossing two high bridges over impressive narrow gorges up to Ripchet: an agricultural village cut from surrounding forest. After lunch, drop steeply down stairs to Gumlung at the river before re-tackling the forested pass and final ascent back to Lokpa. Overnight in Lokpa.

After breakfast, walk downhill to the trail junction for Manaslu, then trek up to the high waterfall and Ekle Bhatti (with great rear views). Walk to Philim for lunch, then follow the river bank trail back to Sirdibas; the last Buddhist village. Overnight in Sirdibas

Today’s route exchanges alpine flora for greener, denser subtropical vegetation – and more humid conditions. Retrace your steps, leisurely, through Salleri, Jagat, Yaruphant, Dobhan and Tatopani to Khorlabesi (for local coffee).Follow the river bar to the hewn steps and ‘bridge with waterfall’ to Machha Khola Overnight in Machha Khola.

Board your jeep for the drive to Arughat, then out of the Budhi Gandaki Valley to Dhading; the better road to Malekhu and finally the highway to Kathmandu. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your next destination.