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Island Peak Climbing (20 Days)

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Island peak
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Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6 189m/20 306ft) is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and stands as a sentinel in front of a vast curve of rock and ice that comprises the south face of the Nuptse – Lhotse – Lhotse Shar – Shar Tse ridge: all over 7 600m. Its base is surrounded by glaciers.

To climb this peak at the end of an Everest Base Camp (or add three days for the more inclusive Gokyo – Everest BC) trek rounds off a thrilling survey of the Mahalangur Himal’s crown jewels. It also ensures thorough pre-acclimatisation before the summit push. The Everest Base Camp route includes a standard eight day trek to the last village of Gorak Shep and walk to the famed Base Camp. A pre-sunrise walk up Kala Patthar behind the village offers superb views of Everest and its satellites before a return trek to Lobuche.

Then tackle the demanding 5 535m Kongma La to Chukkung. A shorter day leads to the Island Peak BC.

Imja Tse is not a difficult peak to summit, but it does demand physical fitness, stamina and an adventuress spirit. A predawn start minimises the risk of summit winds. The route includes a mix of boulder strewn slopes, rock scrambling, an exposed traverse onto the Imja Tse glacier and a (roped) ‘crevasse-avoiding’ ascent up the glacier followed by a steep snow slope to the summit ridge. The long return to Chhukhung is to ensure a more comfortable overnight altitude. Return to Lukla in three days before the flight back to Kathmandu.

Day 01: Arrival  Kathmandu Tribhuvan Airport (1 300m/4 260ft). We will meet and transfer you to your hotel.

Day 02: In the City Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing Tour OR a free day. Trek preparation

Day 03: Kathmandu – Lukla (2 800m/9184ft) – Phakding (2 610m/8560ft), 35 min flight, 3-4 hrs 

Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazaar (3 440m/11 280ft), 5-6 hrs

Day 05: Namche Bazaar: Rest, acclimatization and exploration day

Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Tengboche (3 870m/12 690ft), 5-6 hrs

Day 07: Tengboche – Dingboche (4 360 m/14 300ft), 5-6 hrs

Day 08: Dingboche: Acclimatization and exploration day

Day 09: Dingboche – Lobuche (4 940m/16 210ft), 4-5 hrs

Day 10: Lobuche – Gorak Shep (5 160m/17 000ft) – Everest BC (5 364m/17 594ft) - Gorak Shep, 7-8 hrs

Day 11: Gorak Shep – Kala Patthar (5 545m/18 192ft) – Lobuche (4 940m/16 207ft), 4-5 hrs

Day 12: Lobuche – Kongma La (5 535m/18 150ft) – Chukkung (4 730m/15 510ft), 6-7 hrs  

Day 13: Chukkung – Island Peak Base Camp (5 200m/17 000ft), 3-4 hrs

Day 14: Island Peak Base Camp – High Camp (5 600m/18 370ft), 2-3 hrs

Day 15: High Camp – Island Peak (6 189m/20 306ft) – Base Camp – Chukkung (4 730m/15 510ft), 8-10 hrs  

Day 16: Chukkung – Pangboche (3 990m/13 090ft), 4-5 hrs           

Day 17: Pangboche – Monjo (2 800m/9 200ft), 5-6 hrs                    

Day 18: Monjo – Lukla (2 800m/9 184ft), 4-5 hrs                                                                

Day 19: Lukla – Kathmandu (1 300m/4 264ft), 35min flight.

Day 20: Final Departure Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your next destination.

NB: Cloud and turbulent weather along the mountain ranges is common and may lead to internal mountain flight delays or cancellations. We suggest you add at least one extra day after your trek before flying out of Nepal.

Day 01: Arrival  Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport (1 300m/4 260ft)                     

After completing passport, immigration and visa requirements, we will meet you outside the terminal building (look for your name board) and transfer you to your hotel: afternoon free.  Evening: a welcome dinner, introduction to your guide and a briefing on the trek with a check on necessities.  Overnight at hotel. 

Day 02: in the City  Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing   OR   A Day at Leisure 

Sadly, many of our architectural treasures were damaged in the recent earthquakes: but these sites still have much to offer.

Take a day tour to five of the Kathmandu Valley’s cultural world heritage sites: Swayambhunath, the famed “monkey temple;” the city’s historical Durbar Square with ancient temples, unique art, architecture, and the chance to see the Kumari (living goddess); Patan’s Durbar Square; the Hindu temple Pashupatinath and Bouddhanath, the world’s largest stupa.
A car and driver will take you to each site-entrance and wait for you. (Entry tickets and lunch are not included.)

Day 03: Kathmandu – Lukla (2 800m/9 190ft) – Phakding (2 610m/8 560ft), 35 min flight, 3-4 hrs trek

After breakfast, drive to the Domestic Airport for the flight to Lukla in the Khumbu region – south of Everest. Meet your local porters and begin the discovery by trekking into the Dudh Koshi Valley: to Cheplung (2 700m) and Ghat (2 530m). Another hour’s walk takes you to Phakding. Overnight in Phakding

Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazaar (3 440m/11 290ft), 5-6 hrs

Walk through pine forests along the Dudh Koshi, crossing tributaries, to the Sherpa villages of Benkar (2 710m), Chumoa (2 820m), Monjo (2 840m) and Jorsale (2 830m). This is the gateway and permit checkpoint to the Sagarmatha National Park. Thamserku (6 618m) glistens east of the village. Follow the river to its confluence with the Bhote Koshi: the major rivers draining the Khumbu District. Climb steadily, crossing the high Tenzing- Hilary Bridge, to the first glimpses of Everest and the Nuptse-Lhotse ridge. A further 3hr forested climb leads to the region’s administrative and trade centre at Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.

Day 05: Namche Bazaar: Acclimatization and exploration day

This is the first scheduled acclimatization day. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) experts recommend at least a 24 hr rest period. Keep active: climb high and sleep low is the acclimatisation advice.

Only Namche offers ATMs, cyber cafés, restaurants and bakeries, plus a colourful market each Friday evening and Saturday morning. The Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park Visitor’s Centre has informative displays on Sherpa culture, local flora and fauna.

The village of Khumjung (3 780m) will present a more traditional view of Sherpa life than Namche. Spend a morning walking up to the village. A circular trail is possible. At very least, visit the closer Everest View Hotel (3 880m).

A more adventurous five hour trek west to Thame (3 820m): below the impressive Kongde Ri Ridge (6 187m), offers panoramic Himalayan landscapes not visible from the Gokyo or Everest trails. Return to your hotel for the night.

Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Tengboche (3 870m/12 700ft), 5-6 hrs

From the top of Namche, the trail contours around a hill to Sanasa (3 600m); and a trail fork: NW to Gokyo, NE to Everest. Look for Himalayan tahrs on high ground, shy spotted deer, and birds – including the colourful (male) national bird: the Danphe pheasant. Descend to water driven prayer wheels at Phunki Thenga (3 250m, lowest point north of Namche). Cross the Dudh Koshi near its confluence with the Imja Khola and climb steeply for 2 hrs up the Imja Khola Valley through rhododendron and dwarf conifers to the hilltop village of Tengboche. 

Good views from the village include the Everest group. There is an important monastery that is well worth visiting. At October’s full moon the colourful, Mani Rimdu festival is held; with Tibetan Opera and masked dancing. Overnight in Tengboche.

Day 07: Tengboche – Dingboche (4 360 m/14 300ft), 5-6 hrs

Descend to the scattered stone village of Debuche (3 820m): with a nunnery. Cross the Imja Khola to the north and gradually ascend to Pangboche (3 860m) with rear views of towering Ama Dablam (6 856m). The trail follows the river to its confluence with the Lobuche Khola and continues to Dingboche: the last year-round settlement in the region. Walled terraced fields protect barley, buckwheat and potatoes from icy winds and marauding animals during the short growing season at this altitude. Overnight in Dingboche.

Day 08: Dingboche: Acclimatization and exploration day                             

To acclimatise: head north to the Nangkartshang Gompa ridge (4 800m) for views of the Nuptse Glacier, Chhukhung Ri (4 230m, which masks Lhotse’s glaciers) and Imja Tse (6 189m). Further east, beyond the Mahalangur Himal Ridge, is imposing Makalu (8 463m). Towards the south is, Amphu Lapcha’s fluted ridge (5 845m) and the unusual view of Ama Dablam’s north face and glaciers. Return to the teahouse in Dingboche.

Day 09: Dingboche – Lobuche (4 940m/16 210ft), 4-5 hrs

Ascend slowly to a ridge and the hamlet of Duse (4 500m) with western views of Taboche and Cholatse. Continue through kharkas to Duglha (4 620m). Then ascend the Khumbu Glacier’s huge stony terminal moraine (1hr). Landmark balanced-stone memorials to lost climbers have been placed along its rim. To the north, border peaks along the Mahalangur Himal include Khumbutse, Lingtren, and Pumori. Everest is hidden by the imposing Nuptse-Lhotse wall. Continue to and overnight in Lobuche.

Day 10: Lobuche – Gorak Shep (5 160m/16 930ft) – Everest Base Camp (5 360m/17 590ft) – Gorak Shep, 7-8 hrs

A desolate trail along the moraine heads for the last, seasonal, village of Gorak Shep below Pumori. After an early lunch, trek to cold EBC: positioned on the Khumbu Glacier opposite the dreaded icefall – the most nerve wracking section of an Everest ascent.

During the April-May ascent season, porters scurry in and out with supplies like an army of ants and the site is a riot of colourful tents perched on the dirty ice. Out of season it is bleak and silent, bar birds, wind and avalanches.  Everest and the Cwm are hidden behind the West Ridge. Walk back to Gorak Shep for the night.

Day 11: Gorak Shep – Kala Patthar (5 545m/18 192ft) – Lobuche (4 940 m/16 208ft), 4-5 hrs

From the village, a pre-dawn climb (2-3hrs) up Kala Patthar, offers sunrise over: Everest (8 848m/29 028ft), Lhotse (8 516m), Nuptse (7 861m) and Changtse (7 550m, north of the Rongbuk Glacier). Then Pumori (7 145m), Lingtren (6 697m) and Khumbutse (6 623m) amidst countless other peaks that crowd your horizon. Cho Oyo (8 201m) can be seen further to the west:

Drop back to Gorak Shep for breakfast and then take a leisurely stroll down to Lobuche. Overnight in Lobuche.  

Day 12: Lobuche – Kongma La (5 535m/18 154ft) – Chhukhung (4 730m/15 519ft), 6-7 hrs

Follow the path south-east that leads onto the Khumbu Glacier moraine. Cross the glacier following the route cairns. Beyond the opposite moraine, is a long tough climb up unabated loose scree to the Kongma La summit: with rewarding views back over the glacier – and to the east the starkly beautiful rock and ice landscape of the descent. First walk through a shallow depression of frozen lakes. Beyond its rim is a boulder strewn landscape that leads to the head of the south facing Niyang Khola Valley. Descend, below towering walls of rock, to the river crossing, followed by a walk over the Nuptse Glacier’s moraine. A rise over a final small hill leads to the summer grazing village of Chhukhung. Overnight in Chhukhung.

Day 13: Chukkung – Island Peak Base Camp (5 200m/17 060ft), 3-4 hrs                   

The path first climbs to the south before curving east to undulate along or below the southern flank of the Lhotse Glacier: on the routes to the Makalu BC or Tumlingtar. Before reaching the Imja Tsho, the trail turns to the north and then winds eastwards, crossing the Lhotse and Imja Glaciers, north of the lake, up to the campsite; and lunch.
The trekking crew will then lead you through a few hours of ice-climbing training with crampons and rope work in preparation for the rigours ahead. Overnight at Base Camp.

Day 14: Island Peak Base Camp – High Camp (5 600m/18 370ft), 2-3 hrs                 

Continue along the path above the Lhotse Glacier and then turn north as the trail ascends steeply for several hundred metres up grass and rock covered slopes to a rocky gully between two ridges. Climb up a series of short rocky steps to find several places suitable for a high camp: and early night. Overnight at High Camp.

Day 15: High Camp – Summit (6 189/20 306ftm) – BC – Chukkung (4 730m/15 519ft), 8-10 hrs

The crew will wake you with coffee at around 02:00 and breakfast shortly thereafter. For the final push up the snow slopes, crampons need to be worn and the party will be roped up where necessary for additional safety. Ideally, the ascent will take 5-6 hrs. The route follows a ridgeline followed by an exposed traverse to the snout of the summit glacier. After roping up, ascend onto the glacier and, avoiding crevasses, walk up the steep snow slope to the spectacular summit ridge.

Take in the overwhelming close-up views along the Mahalangur Himal of the Nuptse – Lhotse – Lhotse Shar – Makalu ridge above their glacier fields with a host of lesser peaks that will include, clockwise from south-west to south east, Ama Dablam, Amphu Gyabjen, Nangkar Tshang, Pokalde, Chhukhung, Cho Polu, Kali Himal, Baruntse and Amphu Lapcha, et al.

Then make the long 1 450m/4 750ft descent via Base Camp to Chukkung for a hot meal, warmer and more comfortable night at the lower altitude. Overnight in Chukkung.

Day 16: Chukkung – Pangboche (3 990m/13 090ft), 4-5 hrs                           

Follow the trail down the Imja Khola Valley, past the trail from Lobuche, and continue to Dingboche. This is the highest permanently settled village in the Khumbu region. Continue down to cross the Chola Khola at its confluence of the Imja Khola before descending to the attractive Sherpa villages of Orsho and Shomare and on to fertile Pangboche, set in beautiful scenery. The Khumbu region’s oldest monastery stands in the upper village. Overnight in Pangboche.

Day 17: Pangboche – Monjo (2 800m/9 200ft), 5-6 hrs                    

Return to Tengboche and then descend to Phunki Temba (3 250m) before climbing to Sanasa (3 600m) and on to Namche (3 440m) for lunch. Then drop into the greener valley and Jorsale (2 830m). Exit the National Park and walk on to Monjo. Overnight in Monjo.

Day 18: Monjo – Lukla (2 800m/9 184ft), 3-4 hrs

Follow the Dudh Koshi, through farming villages to Phakding (2 610m). Cross the suspension bridge at Thado Koshi and walk up to Cheplung (2 700m). Descend and then climb steeply back to Lukla: where your porters will take their leave. Overnight in Lukla.

Day 19: Lukla – Kathmandu (1 300m/4 264ft), 35 min flight

After an early breakfast, take the return flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel. Rest of day free.

Day 20: Final Departure

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight to your next destination.

NB: Cloud and turbulent weather along the mountain ranges is common and may lead to internal mountain flight delays or cancellations. We suggest you allow at least one extra day after your trek before flying out of Nepal.

Cost Include

  •  All the airport/ Hotel transfers
  • Two Star Hotel in Kathmandu, Thamel for 3 night with the  bed and  breakfast
  • Well come and farewell dinner
  • Full day Kathmandu city tour on  private car/Van/ Bus
  • Professional govt. registered tour Guide
  • Domestic flight ( Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu)weight limit 15kg all together per person
  • Full meals ( Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) during the treks
  • Supplementary Snakes ( energy bar cookies and seasonal  fresh fruit 
  • All necessary paper work permit  ( National Park Permit and Island Peak Climbing Permit )
  • An English speaking professional govt. registered trekking Guide Climbing Guide and porter ( 2 trekkers 1 Porter ) above the 4 trekkers 1 assistant Guide
  • Hot drinks ( tea and coffee)
  • Safe drinking water ( Chlorine/ Iodine water)
  • All the Mountain accommodations
  • 4 nights' accommodations with the independent bathroom/ hot shower which is very good after many days trekking
  • Rest of the night comfortable private room with sharing toilet and Bathroom
  • Guide  Climbing Guide and all the staff  salary, meals, accommodations, insurance, flight and equipment
  • All the government and local taxes
  • A comprehensive medical kit
  • Trekking equipment four season sleeping bag down jacket rain coat walking poll many more as per necessary
  • High quality Mountain Hard ware or North Face sleeping tent. Kitchen ,Dining, toilet, tens Mattress and Kitchen equipment for island peak climbing

Cost Exclude

  • Kathmandu city tour monument fees
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu except welcome and farewell dinner
  • All the soft and alcoholic drinks
  • Mineral water
  • Boiled water
  • Personal  expenses
  • Electronic device re charge
  • Wi Fi
  • Hot shower except 4 night
  • Travel insurance and evacuation
  • Tip ( not compulsory but expected)

Personal climbing gears

  • Ice axe, Crampons, harness, Tap slings, (2)screw gate
  • Karabiners ( 2 luck and 2 unlock) Descender/Abseil/ Device Plastic Mountaineering Boots, Ascender, helmet, etc

Group climbing Gears

  • Snow Bar Ice Hammer Ice Screw etc

Never forget the Nepal trips

(5/5)
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My first and second Nepal trekking were arranged by Prem, he is a competent and responsible tour guide. During the pre-journey planning and in the course of trekking, he always shows his professionalism in mountaineering. You have nothing to worry about the detail arrangement of the trip and just enjoy the scenery and his services provided. Nepal is wonderful place to carry out trekking activities. Its beautiful scenery and different level of trekking route is suitable for all but a reliable tour guide like Prem is required to help you to arrange everything.

Source: Tripadvisor

Address: Hong Kong, China
Published on: 2015-12-08

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